Glycolic Acid

Description

Glycolic acid is a water-soluble alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) made from sugar cane. It is one of the most widely used AHAs in skincare products. AHAs are natural acids that come from plants. They consist of tiny molecules that are very easy for your skin to absorb.

Specification

What does glycolic acid do for your face?

A lot, actually. “Using glycolic acid can help fade hyperpigmentation, minimize pores, refine skin texture, and smooth lines and wrinkles,” says dermatologist Saya Obayan, MD. How, you ask? “Glycolic acid works by dissolving the glue that holds together dead skin cells, lifting pigment from the skin, and increasing collagen production,” explains Dr Obayan. And it does this all without creating little micro-tears in your skin, like an aggressive scrub or exfoliating brush.

What percentage of glycolic acid is safe?

“I suggest starting with a product that has a low percentage of glycolic acid, like 5 percent, if you’re new to using acids,” says Dr. Obayan. (P.S., When you first start using glycolic acid, you may notice a slight tingling upon application—that’s normal.) If you’ve been using a low-level glycolic acid for some time (think: six months or more), you can slowly work your way up to one with a 15 percent or 20 percent concentration. As a rule, the higher the percentage, the more effective the formula will be at brightening dark spots and smoothing lines…but also the harsher it can be on your skin.

Is it ok to use glycolic acid everyday?

It depends on the concentration and the type of product you’re using it in. My skin can tolerate using glycolic acid daily, but more sensitive skin types may only be able to handle a few times a week. As a general rule, start slow and decrease frequency at the first sign of irritation, itching, or redness. “I recommend patients with sensitive skin ‘spot test’ a glycolic acid serum on a small area of skin before slathering it on their face. If they can use it daily for a one week without any redness, irritation, or dryness, they can start applying it to all over,” says Dr. Obayan.

What I def don’t recommend? Using multiple glycolic acid-based products (like an exfoliating cleanser, liquid toner, and serum) in a row, every single. That’s just a guaranteed recipe for irritation.